Friday, December 10, 2004 @ 9:00 AM
| Location: | Central Coast | ||
| Weather: | Sunny and Warm | ||
| Conditions: | Big Closeouts | ||
| Swell: | 13ft at 17 seconds | ||
| Surf: | Overhead+ |
Comments:
Today was obviously going to be a big day of surf. With 13ft swells showing up on Harvest I headed to a more protected part of the central coast, where waves are usually half the size as my "usual" spot. It was still overhead and I couldn't good shape really so I just headed out to a new place that I thought looked like a reef break. Perhaps I should have studied this new spot longer because once I was out I only got about half a dozen waves, of which only two had any face to work as the others closed out on me in a rush of water. Big bombs came in outside and offered nowhere to go. My duckdiving improved by leaps and bounds today, that was about the only thing that did, as my total time up on the board was 30 seconds.
I need to find a point break or a real reef in this location. Perhaps it was the swell direction but it was tough to get a good ride.