Saturday, December 11, 2004 @ 12:00 PM
| Location: | Central Coast | ||
| Weather: | Sunny and Warm | ||
| Conditions: | Big Closeouts, sometimes makeable | ||
| Swell: | 8ft at 17 seconds | ||
| Surf: | Overhead Sets |
Comments:
The swell dropped in half today so I headed to a more exposed place but it was still big and closing out there. I went out anyway. There were only 3 or 4 of us spread out over this half mile strand of beach. It was a tough paddle out. A lot of duck diving, but I made it out. My first few waves looked like good shape but once I dropped in I saw nothing but a lip coming down on me. Soon I was more cautious and got a few waves with shape. Fast lefts that jacked up and closed out and fast rights that offered a turn or two before going ballistic. I had so much water shoved up my nose from getting trashed underwater that my sinus's were jacked up for the next 12 hours or so. I continue to wish for point breaks up here.