Wednesday, December 15, 2004 @ 6:30 AM
| Location: | Deveraux | ||
| Weather: | Cold Dawn to Warm Sunrise | ||
| Conditions: | Clean and workable, Sucking up at the ledge | ||
| Swell: | 10.8ft at 14 seconds 295° | ||
| Surf: | Head High Sets |
Comments:
A rare Deveraux dawn patrol. Leftover spring tides making the mid morning session un-workable so met Petey and Greggory for some Coal Oil Point fun. Sand was cold on the feet walking out but the water was warm. Very consistent waves, lots to choose from in between sets and the sets had several waves that broke outside and on the inside of the ledge. The tide was rising fast, but the ledge was still influencing things big time, making for teapuhoo-esque drops that were make or break. Saw some epic wipeouts over that ledge, and experienced a pretty nice one myself. Took off way deep and tried to backdoor a peak and as it sucked up and the bottom dropped out so did I.
Pete had an awesome set wave, he was shortboarding in about a 50/50 mix of LB to SB's and Greggory and I had the longboards. Greggory had some pretty epic long rides, trimming, stepping, getting to the nose. The sunrise was shining off the lips as you headed down the line. Two days in a row of casual photogs shooting some film. Glorious wave after glorious wave was coming in so although it was a bit crowded it was keeping most of us busy. Good times.