Monday, December 06, 2004 @ 12:30 PM
| Location: | Deveraux | ||
| Weather: | Storm Clouds Gathering | ||
| Conditions: | Peaky yet Powerful | ||
| Swell: | 10ft at 14 seconds NW. | ||
| Surf: | Head High Sets |
Comments:
This, the first real swell I've gotten in the Santa Barbara area of the fall, but it's already December so maybe I never caught a good fall swell, and this is our first winter swell. More on the way too. Got a call from Mikey in the am who said it looked good outside his window in the am. So Rio and I headed down for some Deveraux longboarding. Just a quick 1 hour in the water session, in the 3/2 without booties and it felt so nice and warm.
This was my 2nd longboard session in 3 months, so it took some getting used to. A lot of blown turns where I thought I was on my shortboard and cut too hard and just ate it. Had some real fun drops, the waves had a lot more power to them than I remember for Deveraux. Took off one big macker out near the point, blindly made a bottom turn and headed down the line. The wave jacked up a little bit over a ledge and started to pitch out. I tried to tuck but something took me out and took me down. Under water I relaxed for awhile but the relized my board was stuck in the whitewater and I was being dragged for what seemed like yards and yards. I finally popped up way far from the impact zone. Rio confirmed my dragged under water feat. I then proceeded to get in the way of the next two guys coming thru as I gather my board and myself.
There were certianly some barrells to be had but most of us were denied. The takeoffs were fast and fun but often the waves petered out. I caught one more fun wave near the point that went on and on, down past the blockhouse.