Monday, December 20, 2004 @ 3:45 PM

 
Location: Deveraux
Weather: Warm and Sunny, Windless
Conditions: Clean and Clear, Holding up and Pitching near ledge
Swell: 6.6ftat 14 seconds 305°
Surf: Chest High Sets

Comments:

Deveraux in the afternoon with Rio. Didn't expect much so was surprised by how much fun it was. About a dozen or so folks out there, compacted at the point mostly. We hung out just inside of that and picked of the rogues that swung wide and down towards the block house. Caught a lot of long waves just after the ledge that would take me way down until the wave was only knee high and breaking in shallow water. Lulls between good sets was still quite long, but today at least there was plenty of medium sized sets in between to entertain.

Had the biggest "floater" of my life on a longboard. Had taken off deep trying to backdoor a section, Rio was paddling out after his nice wave, I stalled a bit to give him time to make it over, and then as the closeout section was racing towards me I hit the lip and road the back down for a head high drop and didn't eat it. Tried numerous times to get slotted. Speant a lot of time on the front of my board, a cheater 5 here or there. Tried to get slotted while up near the nose several times. Felt so good. Every session this week I think is my funnest session ever, and this was no exception, it felt great. Sunset wasn't half bad either.




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