Friday, December 17, 2004 @ 3:30 PM
| Location: | Gaviota Coast | ||
| Weather: | Warm then temp dropped 20° at sunset | ||
| Conditions: | Clean long lines with bowls | ||
| Swell: | 9.5ft at 17 seconds 290° | ||
| Surf: | Head High |
Comments:
My first session along the Gaviota Coast this winter and I have the Poison Oak to prove it. Cut out early for the drive to SLO and stopped along this beautiful stretch first for a nice session. Lineup was more crowded than expected but so many quality waves came through that all were satisfied. Wave was a long, long right that cranked down the coast. Sometimes the first section closed out but usually one had a long ride. Wasn't pitching out usually but on the takeoff one had an oportunity for cover up. A lot of good surfers with good attitudes out there.
Caught a lot of fun waves but then had two blown takeoffs back to back. Afraid this would ruin the cred in the lineup I proceeded to give up a lot of waves to gain goodwill again before finally roping in a nice head high wave that offered plenty of setions. The sun was almost down, I should of gone in but instead I sat out there for 15 more minutes and the sea went flat. Got caught inside settling for a small wave and headed in. Exhausted. Sure this swell was not as forecasted but still awesome.