Sunday, December 26, 2004 @ 10:30 AM
| Location: | Ventura PCH | ||
| Weather: | Stiff Winds from SSE | ||
| Conditions: | From slightly textured to blown out in under an hour | ||
| Swell: | |||
| Surf: | Waist High |
Comments:
With extreme high tides for dawn patrol we go for our 4th mid-morning session in a row along the Ventura PCH. Today however we see signs of the storm that is on our way, at least the wind that will precede it. After 3 days in a row of paddling up the coast to stay in the lineup, today we are pushed up the coast by the wind. It is actually smarter to just paddle outside after a wave and let the wind driven water push you back up. Because of this the lineup was very concentrated near the Three Tall Trees so we tried to make our way down to the Three Short Trees. By the time we got down there it was so blown out the waves were slow and junky.
Saw some crazy battles going out there between two young guys and one older bald guy. The older fellow did a crazily blatent drop in one of the young guys, who was actually trunking it out there. As if dropping in on a guy isn't bad enough, you do it to a guy who is trunking it in 57 degree water. Well trunkin it guy and his buddy decide to lash out against Bald guy and they must of stuffed him on his next 4 waves in a row. It was brutal to watch. Thankfully these guys were soley intent on snaking bald guy and were respectfull of everyone else out there. Steve and I debated on who was more in the right. He claimed Trunkin it guy was totally justified to get bald guy back as often as he wanted while I argued that they had probably proven their point after 1 drop in each. The self policing aspect is one of surfing's most unique attributes as shown here today. Merry Christmas.