Sunday, January 16, 2005 @ 9:30 AM
| Location: | Central Coast | ||
| Weather: | Sunny in the 70's with offshores | ||
| Conditions: | Too much texture at first, cleaned up later | ||
| Swell: | 2 foot windswell from the West | ||
| Surf: | Waist High with + Sets |
Comments:
First session since the day after Christmas. That day started out mostly sunny with some clouds in the sky. Later that night it started to rain. For the next 16 days we would see some sort of rain on every single day but one. A few days of waves in that stint, but weather, trees in the water, or scheduling kept me out of the water. Today it didn't look that great, but it was my Birthday and I had to break this 20 day spell of being out of the water, so I headed out to the rock with K-dog's Longboard.
The wind was perhaps 5 knots offshore and the water was real choppy paddling out next to the rock. The waves were confusing at first, a few ok sets came in outside but the wind was holding them back. A lot of missed waves at the get go. Twenty days out of the water didn't help with the wave count at first either. Things started improving though, I caught a few waist high rights that had some length to them and started to get some skills going again. Then over the next half hour I caught a string of unbelievable lefts that made my day. 3 or 4 of them, uber fast takeoffs, straight down the line, grabbing the rail hoping the offshore combed lip would come over my head, then straightening out a little and playing with the lips. Long waves for a beachbreak. That my backside skills had kept so sharp with 3 weeks out of the water was mind boggling. If you have surfed in this long, it's an epic session with you get some fun backsiders like that.
Afterwards it was breakfast at Kitty's Kitchen on Main Street.