Tuesday, January 18, 2005 @ 12:00 PM

 
Location: Deveraux
Weather: Sunny in the 70's with light winds
Conditions: Some bump from the growing onshores
Swell: 5.5ft @ 17s @ 290°
Surf: Waist High

Comments:

Some long period swell trickling in. Tide perhaps too low, wind starting to come on strong and begin to make a mess of things towards the end. The angle of the swell was more westerly than usual for Deveraux and Bill and I sat way down from the point, so there were actually lefts and rights. Some of the lefts were extremely fast for such as slow place and offered much speed and power for fun longboarding. The rights were typically slower and took more work with the cutbacks and keeping in the sweet spot.

Bill caught a nice right hander, some of the sets were coming in bigger than waist high and looking to pitch. His didn't last long though. The long period swell left us with long lulls with not much to work with. The sets were long, multi-wave affairs breaking in many configurations and many spots as water filled in.

Sunny and warm in the air and cool and starting to cleanup in the water. Got snaked by a guy, he looked back at me twice and kept going. No retaliation from my camp.

The beach down at Deveraux was looking good. No mass carnage from StormWatch, and not littered with tree trunks and homes like up along the beaches of the Central Coast.




<< Reports Home