Saturday, February 12, 2005 @ 9:30 AM
| Location: | Central Coast | ||
| Weather: | Cloudy | ||
| Conditions: | Clean and fast inside, big and lumpy outside | ||
| Swell: | 4.1ft @ 14s @ 295° | ||
| Surf: | Head High+ Sets |
Comments:
Back to a spot that I haven't surfed since the big storms. It's a giant stretch of beach where the sandbars were real fun before the big storms re-arranged them for the worse. Everytime I checked, it was not holding up so I was hitting up other places that were fun yet more crowded. Today I was back and the shape was still messed up but getting better.
Mother nature gave this beach a facelift in a big way, with one big long sandbar on the outside and then more typical sandbars on the inside. At first I headed all the way outside and tried to get the bigger ones. However 90% of these were not breaking outside. Some longboarders were able to get on these thing, almost like open ocean swells, but with the 6'6" I was getting frustrated. I finally wrangeled in one amazing left after paddling after it for yards and yards. Screaming down the line was well worth the wait.
The tide was rising, the outside bar was getting even worse so I migrated to the inside bar. This paid off well, as my wave count started climbing. The only problem here is that it got real shallow at the end of the wave. A fun takeoff, some pumping down the line and either a big cut or a tuck into the pocket as the chest high by now wave exploded into a mess of sand. Paddling in this shallow part of the beach was horrible as no matter what size the wave was, it denotated right here, leaving you to duck dive about every 12 seconds in pretty shallow water until you clawed it out to your lineup.
Abosultely invigorating session.