Sunday, February 20, 2005 @ 10:00 AM
| Location: | Central Coast | ||
| Weather: | In between rain bands: windy and cloudy | ||
| Conditions: | Rough and tumble survival mode | ||
| Swell: | 4.5ft @ 14s @ 285° | ||
| Surf: | Head High |
Comments:
My most commonly surfed beach break along the central coast. Paddled out and was instantly escorted 200 yards to the north, near a pile of rocks I'd never had the pleasure of surfing with. Constant maintance padlling was required to stay put. The waves were marching in from the South, creating huge rip currents and a huge side-shore current.
Waves were breaking on both the outside and inside bars again. Outside was a bunch of bombs, while inside they were denonating in 2 feet of water. In between was a river of muddy water. I caught a few on the inside bar and tried to fight my way down the coast to no avail. I got out and walked until I got to a peak that looked stable. I paddled out well south of it and hit it dead on. 4 guys out at this peak, and with them holding the lineup down, I was able to maintanence paddle my way into a stable position. This was the outside bar, it took work getting there and staying there. It was worth it though, because it was launching us into head high lefts that raced and pitched out thanks to the sideshore/offshore wind. I only caught 4 waves at this peak before calling it, but it was well worth it. After surfing in ucky brown water in screaming winds it was hot tub time.