Thursday, February 24, 2005 @ 11:30 AM
| Location: | Deveraux | ||
| Weather: | Sunny and Warm | ||
| Conditions: | Clean with a little bump from the side | ||
| Swell: | 6.1ft @ 14s @ 290° | ||
| Surf: | Chest High |
Comments:
Deveraux again on the longboard, this time with Greggory in tow. Coming off of a high tide, only a few guys out. One guy on an awesome green swallow tail who also out yesterday. Completely owning the point. The point wasn't as shut down by the ledge as yesterday. At first we sat out in front of the ledge and caught some nice ones. Soon we were working more inside as it was more consistent. We were getting a lot of waves cause it was very consistent and only a few of us out.
The drops were fun but then followed by a slow section that required some serious cutbacks, of which I was about 50% pulling off. Water was hammering of of the ledge I think and sometimes walling up the wave right about the time I was coming back from my cutback.
My favorite wave was a nice sized set wave that I took off way too deep on, inadvertently backdooring a peak that swung wide. After a nice drop it was obvious I was not going to make it past the main peak and a guy was paddling out right into the impact zone. Instead of trying to make it and surely eating it in front of him, I swung up, hit the lip and went out of control airborne on what must of looked like a completely botched longboarding section floater. Good times.
Greggory had a similarly awesome botch job. He was taking off way late on a good sized set, in what looked like a 1 or 2 stroke paddle in and a quick stand up that screamed of momentum needed. The wave did pick him up but he slid down the face sideways, not quite tracking. Just when it looked like he was about to pull it off he completely lost all contact with the wave and went down big time. Awesome.
Fun session.