Wednesday, February 23, 2005 @ 11:30 AM

 
Location: Deveraux
Weather: Sunny and Warm, High Clouds
Conditions: Clean considering 6 days of storm
Swell: 8.9ft @ 17s @ 290°
Surf: Chest High+

Comments:

Deveraux on the longboard in a sea of shortboarders. Had I known it was so shortboardable I would of done the same. I avoided stink eye by not abusing the power a longboard could of had out there. Mostly. There were times I tried to take off way outside of the ledge and setup before it jacked up over the ledge. This had a poor performance ratio so was soon abandoned for the inside lineup. The ledge was owning the outside, tempting all but having no takers. Soon the tide dropped enough where pre-ledge surfing was do-able.

I caught a billion waves, some to way past the block house and some that would peter out in some holes. A shortboard would of been fun, I just wanted to carve out a big turns but the LB wasn't quite loose enough to put pen to paper. It was good at catching those waves that held up too long, frustrating all those with small foam and delighting me.

A few pretend cover ups, lots of cutbacks, minimal walking the board, and very little nose time. I was not using the LB as a LB, but rather being one of those performance longboarders that are often questioned. Either way it was an awesome session.




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