Saturday, March 05, 2005 @ 9:00 AM
| Location: | Central Coast | ||
| Weather: | Finally Sunny | ||
| Conditions: | Clean Reefy Peaks | ||
| Swell: | 10.1ft @ 14s @ 310° | ||
| Surf: | Head High |
Comments:
The buoys were big, real big so I headed to the most sheltered spot I knew about. It was muddy from all of the rains and about head high. Tide was pretty low, and the left was working real good. I hung on the north side of the pack and picked off a bunch of fun lefts. Racy drops, a chance to go to the lip and then a slowdown for a cutback. Half the time I'd lose the wave here but sometimes I could work it into the next band of racing sections which would end up in a close out semi-cover up in a rock band. My best wave ever at this spot was one of these lefts, that started out a tad overhead and ended up about waist high.
Best conversation with random surfer in the water ever. A guy paddles up on a longboard and sits near me. I smell a lot of suntan lotion right away. He then turns to me and says, "Is it just me, or does this water sting your eyes?" He had a point, the water was nasty and brown from a week of rains, but my eyes didn't sting and I smelled his suntan lotion. So I asked "You have suntan lotion on?", to which he realized the error of his ways and was comforted to know the no, the water was not going to kill him.
My leash ripped off of my ankle on one nice wipeout. Stupid velcro is getting completely useless, I have to tuck my leash under my wetsuit. The tide was low and there were oddels of rocks but lucky for me my board stopped short of the rocks and I managed to rescue it.