Tuesday, March 01, 2005 @ 6:00 AM
| Location: | Montecito Coast | ||
| Weather: | Cloudy | ||
| Conditions: | Mostly Clean with leftover bump | ||
| Swell: | 9.2ft @ 14s @ 285° | ||
| Surf: | Overhead |
Comments:
After yesterday's session at Rincon I was tempted to go back and try some more, but instead I opted for smaller waves that I could catch more of. The swell had dropped since yesterday afternoon, but as I walked out in the pre-dawn haze I was pretty much at peace with whatever was out there. Walking to surf on a lush trail before the sun rises, in the stillness of the morning is the best ever to bring calm and focus. I had my 6'6" on me still, this would be ok for this session, although more foam would have helped scratch to a few frustrating almost beens.
There was an awesome 3 legged dog with two different colored eyes on the beach. 3 legged dogs are awesome, and different colored eyes is icing on the cake, man. Again I wanted to walk up top and backdoor the peak but the rock situation was looking rugged and I was bootyless so I was a chump and paddled in at the channel and got some lactic acid worked out of the shoulders on the long paddle up.
Fun sets were coming in, looking burly on the outside and just plain boxy, sucking up in foam and dirt on the inside. Unlike yesterday, I managed to catch more then 1 wave, a handfull of fast fun drops. Superstars were pulling in way deep and making it past the first section. I on the other hand didn't make the first section on my first two waves and had wussed on a cover up opp. On the third wave it was closing out also but this time I manned up and stuck in for the cover up as the sheet came over my head and swallowed me up. It was brutal in this area, a swirl of foam and sand and weird currents made it tough to get back on your board and get out of the impact zone. I speant much time sideways in the zone getting slapped around after a wave.
The folks were friendly, a couple of guys were owning the peak and I got shuffled out of a good lineup spot once by some deft pre-set manuvering. The tide was rising and the consistency was slowing down but the extra water was going to help the inside peak. Out of the water and at work by 8:00.