Thursday, April 14, 2005 @ 6:30 PM
Gaviota Coast Reunion Session
| Location: | Gaviota Coast | ||
| Weather: | Sunny with light onshores | ||
| Conditions: | Slight Texture outside, clean inside | ||
| Swell: | 7.7ft @ 12s @ 305° |
||
| Surf: | Thigh High |
Comments:
The lineup was filled, almost 90% longboards although the waves came down with some authority. I had my shortboard and managed to usually get up in time to duck into a closeout pit or hit the lip and fall. Water is still cold. Sunset was amazing. Crowd was good people, this lineup certainly represented more a cross section of our surfing community than does sands with people of all ages and sexes.
Favorite wave was yet again a left. Are lefts my favorite because I am sketchy going backside and so it is just exciting? This one was a late takeoff on a peaky bump that was funnelling off of a sandbar near a rip. I dropped in and ducked down, outside rail grab and my board compelety lost all grip as I slid sideways down the wave as it came over. I gave out a solitary hoot because I thought it was all over but somehow some fin grabbed and I headed down the line towards the sunset in a rollercoaster race for the shoulder. I wasn't fast enough and the lip folded up and landed on me, splaying my body across the surface of the sea and then pinning me against the soft sand bottom like a flyswatter. Yep, not much as changed in the year since I surfed this beachbreak. I'll be back again soon.