Saturday, April 23, 2005 @ 10:00 PM
Rock Before the Rain
| Location: | Central Coast | ||
| Weather: | Just before the Rain | ||
| Conditions: | Mushed outside, snapping inside | ||
| Swell: | 1.8ft @ 17s @ 220° |
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| Surf: | Infrequent Waist High + |
Comments: I think it was only the South Swell that was working at this spot, and it was shadowed towards the south and working better at the 2nd peak further north. It would be flat as a lake for 10 minutes, surfers would start paddeling in to catch some small inside ones, and then a really fun set would come in way outside and offer epic rights and lefts. I was on a shortboard but the lonboarders clearly had the advantage today, they would catch these things long before they would break, almost like tanker surfing, and then make a turn as it started to shoal. Us shortboarders were often caught in the no mans land between the infrequent outside sets and the more frequent yet smaller beach break. Occaionsly I got it right, and was outside with the longboarders and nabbed a fun one, but usually I was paddeling for stuff that didn't break for football fields later. Kind of frustrating but when I did get waves they made it all worth while.