Santa Barbara Area Surf Reports

Comments:

After an early dawn patrol session I engineer a post work session with Greggory and K-dog with a cooler full for Friday Happy Hour. We packed the wagon up and headed south. The 101 was packed of course but we only had a few exits to go. We brought our gear to the beach and sure enough the swell was still there. We camped out near a palapa and started changing. Within minutes a security guard and a dog came to tell us we were on private property. I had setup camp in front of this palapa many a time and never had a problem, but what I didn't notice was the 3 new security cameras they installed, one right on top of the palapa. We moved a few feet seaward and then chatted up the gaurd. It's amazing how quickly a situation can go from tense and defenesive to friendly. I simply asked the guard what her guard dog's name was. She responded with "Cheyene" and then was really friendly, switching from letter of the law to now how to get around the law, and then eventually offering where to keep our stuff in case the wind came up. All because of Cheyene.

The tide was super high so the paddle out was a little rough yet quick. Two shortboarders were outside. I was on the fish, and my companions on longboards. If I was nearly soloing a peak and 3 people paddled out on wave catching machines I'd be bummed, so we kept it lo pro for most of the session. We didn't stay out too long, traded a dozen waves or so as it got more and more crowded. K-dog and Greggory went in, and I was going to catch one more. I paddled all the way out and one guy on a yellow railed board was deeper than I. A set came and I thought he missed it so I took off. Looked back a little and didn't see anyone so raced down the line. A few turns into it I crash into the guy. Without a doubt my worst burn job ever. I felt horrible and apologized profusely saying I had no idea. He was pissed and would have none of it. About 5 minutes later I tried to repeat my apologies and this time he accepted them without chastising me, saying with the setting sun it's tough to see behind you. I caught a small one in and couldnt' stop thinking about it. Jenny took photos, and afterwards we all shared story and beers as the sun set. Not a bad Friday; two sessions, a nice sunrise and a nice sunset and capping it off with a brew on the beach. Summer.