Thursday, May 19, 2005 @ 12:30 PM

 

Lunchtime Before Schools' Out

Location: Gaviota Coast
Weather: Sunny and Warm
Conditions: Low tide, very clean yet small
Swell:

5.2ft @ 11s @ 305°

Surf: Knee High

Comments: Quick lunchtime beachbreak session. Warmth out in force, and although the waves were very small it warranted getting out. Leashless in small yet fast beachbreak in very shallow water. More then once did I hit the lip and go down in a blaze of glory to hit the bottom with my back in 18" of water. Was much more successfull at getting speed today compared to yesterday. Although it was smaller the low tide must have given it more juice and so I wasn't bogging down. An out of place guy was down there with a HUGE lens on his Nikon camera. Looking a little suspicous, my belief is he was paparazzi stalking a celibrity of some sort staying at the nearby resort. There was certianly a lot of non beach bum activity down there today so something must be going on in those parts. A guy who paddled out two minutes before me went in two minutes after I went out. It took longer for him to suit up then to surf. It was that small.




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