Monday, May 23, 2005 @ 6:30 PM
Monday Fog Glass Off
| Location: | Goleta Beachbreaks | ||
| Weather: | Fog Clearing Out | ||
| Conditions: | Clean and bowling | ||
| Swell: | 9.6ft @ 12s @ 315° |
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| Surf: | Waist High |
Comments:
How many time do co-workers complain that it was crudy weather all weekend but then sunny on Monday? Tell them all about May 23rd, 2005. After 3 warm and sunny days in a row, with waves to boot, it gets foggy on Monday back at work. The NW long period swell was gone but there was some 11 second or stuff out there around 10ft on the buoys. Certainly enough to sample some beachbreaks after work.
I headed to my usual after work Goleta beachbreak and suited up as the fog was breaking. I already saw Bobby out there on his yellow board, hitting the lip and getting air on just about every wave. The beach was completely changed since last week, the creek had cutout big ledges and moved a lot of sand, and now it was all back on the beach. The shape was quite good for a beachbreak, although a lot of them were too fast to make, many were makeable.
The best barrell I've seen in weeks happened about mid-session where some local 90lb kid I see out there all the time dropped into a teardrop shaped barrell and let the board slide down towards the curtain while he tucked his body perfectly into the oval shaped pocket. Was a great image as I paddled over the shoulder.
Once again a good vibe out here, mostly groms who all know each other and a few older dudes, all stoked to be out there. I had a few tuck ins and got taken out by the lip quite a few times too. Waves seemed more consistent towards sunset as the the crowd thinned. I drifted to the Eastern peak and found a groove, with a fun drop, a few turns and then a tuck into a closeout section that would pound me to the sand.