Sunday, May 22, 2005 @ 12:00 PM

 

Trunks In May

Location: Montecito Coast
Weather: Sunny and Hot
Conditions: Cleaner
Swell:

6.6ft @ 8s @ 295°

Surf: Knee High

Comments:

Friday: Two sessions in the 3/2 fullsuit. Saturday: Two sessions in the 2/1 springsuit. Today: Two sessions in Trunks and no leash. What a maddening May it is. The swell is all but gone, but there still is some energy, however small, that makes it all worthwhile. The water is so warm trunking it is not a problem at all. Leashless was tough because there are a lot of bathers inside, and I lost my board too many times. I never took out any toddlers though.

Best wave was the last one of the first session. A fast bowling right that swung way inside where the beachbreak was closing out amongst swimmers. Screamed down the line and managed to control my board when it all came crashing down.




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