Sunday, June 05, 2005 @ 12:00 PM

 

Noontime Leadbetter

Location: Leadbetter
Weather: Overcast
Conditions: Occainsonal Boat Wake
Swell:

5.5ft @ 10s @ 315°

Surf: Knee High

Comments:

Petey was out at Leadbetter with the longboard so I tried to meet but was too late. However there was only a guy and his young son out there and so what the heck. Water has taken a big cold dip after the May 21st weekend where it was so warm. Leashlessly I paddled into knee high conditions and gave the father-son dou plenty of space. Firmly establishing surfing stereotypes they were, with the dad waiting way outside for only the best waves while the young tyke was inside getting millions of smaller waves. The kid was probably 10 years old and had style. I was the rover, mostly sitting in the middle taking dad's scraps but if I was paddling out after a wave and saw one I'd spin around and go for anything. I took these things as far as possible, down to the end of the ramp even though they were 6" tall in 6" of water.

Hadn't been on the longboard in 1 or 2 months and so my first two waves were pearls. The fish allows you to paddle so far forward on the board that I forgot how far back you have to be on the longboard. Towards the end of the session 3 high school aged kids came out and the lineup couldn't support that many so I went in on a high note, catching some little scratcher all the way to end of the ramp. The older fellow with the boogieboard that I see walking all over town was just heading out. That guy rules.




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