Sunday, June 05, 2005 @ 5:00 PM
Of Dogs and Men
| Location: | Mesa | ||
| Weather: | Fog cleared out, light breeze | ||
| Conditions: | Clean shifty peaks | ||
| Swell: | 7.2ft @ 8s @ 315° |
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| Surf: | Knee to Waist High |
Comments:
After a noontime longboarding session at Leadbetter, it was time for some evening shortboarding fun further up the coast. Much bigger here than Leadbetter and much bigger then last night. But still small. By chance Petey was chilling on the beach with the lady and soon to be kid, but he had no board on him. I went out for 45 minutes while K-dog walked and studied flashcards for her last two finals. I still am amazed at how dogs have overtaken our lives these last few years. Since the po-po cracks down on dogs to the beaches further east, they've all consolidated into Wilcox and the surrounding beaches. On a high tide, this means about one dog per square foot. I looked in once to see K-dog sitting on the beach with one dog trying to lick her ear and another trying to get her to massage it's sore hips. It was dog chaos.
I had some real fun waves. I do now believe I am coming up after the low point on the Fish. I'm starting to learn how to keep it moving, and to not stall it by flat footing it. You have to keep the weight on one fin or the other, making rail to rail turns, or otherwise I think the sheer bouyancy of the thing jacks up the hyrdodynamics. Or maybe Dave doesn't give it enough Vee, or maybe I can't handle the responsibility of the fish. With great power comes great responsibility. The question is moot because I was catching waves and cranking down the line, and still falling a lot but also making it off the top and back down finally.