Sunday, July 24, 2005 @ 6:30 PM
Below Leadbetter
| Location: | Leadbetter | ||
| Weather: | Overcast | ||
| Conditions: | Small and Windy | ||
| Swell: | Slight windswell |
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| Surf: | Knee High |
Comments:
After this mornings "session" along the Mesa I thought things could only pickup as the day progressed. Greggory and I planned a dusk assault at Leadbetter on the longboards. We were going out no matter how bad it looked. It looked bad. No waves in sight, no one out and overcast. Leashless was good for the low tide as it created a forest of kelp amongst other problems. It was small. You know it's a sad, sad day when you paddle for waves that are head high when you are lying down. I have no shame surfing small waves, but his was perhaps the smallest, most gutless session of the summer.
Of course since we were out there, alone, in total garbage waves many decided to join us. Within the hour we had a half a dozen people sitting on us. Did we make it look that good? What are you people doing. I discovered an insane inside section that was pealing 8" waves for yards. Yards. The problem with this was that I was in direct competition with the skimboarders. They were like, "Hey you guys are supposed to stick to the water that is over one foot deep and we take the shallows." Not really, but I would surf until my 7" fin had a nice sanding. So to speak.
Soon the micro inside grew boring so Greggory and I planned a brave assualt. We would paddle outside, past all of those people sitting in the kelp strewn battefield and claim our spot at that little peak that breaks outside the point. This worked for me the other day. It rarely connects to wrap around into the cove but provides bigger waves and more consistency. We ruled this peak that had 1' bombs every 5 minutes until we attracted a crowd again. We put the work in to discover these hidden secret breaks and others captilize on our groundwork. Saddening, really.