Monday, July 11, 2005 @ 6:00 PM
Island of Sun
| Location: | Goleta Beachbreaks | ||
| Weather: | Foggy Everywhere But Here | ||
| Conditions: | Clean and Fast | ||
| Swell: | 3.2ft @ 9s @ 300° |
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| Surf: | Waist High Sets |
Comments:
No surfing since Thursday so I once again head out to the beachbreak to hang out with groms. Almost an identical setup to Thursday, except no old longboarders running over their kids today. Surf shop guy is out, as are the usual suspect rippers. Didn't look like much while suiting up on the beach so I went leashless like on Thursday. However I lost my board so much and "held back" on some potential cover ups that I ran in for the leash about half way thru.
Paddled straight out and went insane on one wave after another. Lots of closeouts which today meant lots of swimming because I was too stupid to control myself and had to try to do something at the end of the wave. So glassy and clean, when a bigger closeout set would come in I'd stall just so I could duck dive thru the clean tube, grabbing the front of my board with one hand and seeing how gracefully and slowly I could punch thru. Not a drop of water out of place on these waist high waves. It was foggy and cruddy looking when I left work, and I headed towards the beach and it actually cleared up, which was weird. Driving downtown afterwards and got foggy again. Island of Sun.
Waves kept getting better and better, a consistent flow of thigh to waist high waves to experiement on. The crowd drifted East and I tried to stay in place which made me the only guy on the most popular peak by the time the sun was setting. No dolphins, one seal, which did not attack me.