Tuesday, August 30, 2005 @ 5:30 PM
Back to the Beach
| Location: | Goleta Beachbreaks | ||
| Weather: | Sunny and quite warm | ||
| Conditions: | Clean with some high tide queasiness | ||
| Swell: | 5.5ft @ 9s @ 315° |
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| Surf: | Thigh High |
Comments:
I haven't surfed in the Greater Santa Barbara area in over a month. In fact I even gave up on looking, instead taking solace in biking or running, both of which leave the arms in bad shape when the fall shapes up. However today while monitering the buoys I noticed the windswell keep building with a pretty good period for windswell, averaging somewhere around 10 seconds. I usually get bageled when I rush to my favorite beachbreak to catch windswell I see on buoys, but today I was right on. More than a dozen surfers out surfing thigh high waves that were indeed small yet surfable. Heck, a waist high set came in every now and then.
I had the shortboard and the springsuit, a combination that hasn't seen much daylight lately, but the water was much warmer than Sunday's Oxnard session, and I still managed to get enough waves with the shorty. Typical ripsters out, their 2nd day of school having been completed, and me wondering why I didn't come out at lunch when the rugrats were learning Chemistry.
My surfing was better than Oxnard, but still plenty of bogged turns. Getting covered was almost possible but coming off the lip did not have enough juice. Mix of longboarders and shortboarders with a insane amount of kids inside to avoid while you surfed into 12 inches of water. Finally back surfing the local beachbreak just minutes from work, sun is out, water is warm, and no navigation of traffic. Tranquilo.