Thursday, September 15, 2005 @ 6:30 AM
Leo Carillo "Monster" Swell
| Location: | Leo Carillo / Arroyo Sequit | ||
| Weather: | Dense Fog | ||
| Conditions: | Red Tidish, Closing Out | ||
| Swell: | Long Awaited SW |
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| Surf: | Head High Sets |
Comments:
Took off at 5:20am from SB to surf somewhere on the way to Jonah's in Santa Monica for the begginnning of his bachelor party trip to Baja. The first place I stopped was Leo Carillo and so I headed out on the shortboard. About a 50/50 mix of longboards and shortboards. I don't surf there enough to know the right tides, but I do know that you couldn't get from the rocks to the shore, there was a big closeout section that was fun to race but was not makeable on the sets.
This was some super long awaited "monster" swell that surfline predicted. We had a bad summer, fog, red tide, and flat conditions so everyone was hungry for waves. There was still red tide and fog, but at least we had waves. I'd say the biggest ones were head high or so.
I surfed at the rock for awhile and then started catching fun ones over near the rock to the left. Caught about 6 really good waves in the hour I was out there, and I was content with that because of the crowds. Afterwards I took some pictures which can be seen by cliking below and then I drove down to Jonah's and beyond.
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