Sunday, October 30, 2005 @ 8:00 AM

 

First Day of PST

Location: Rincon
Weather: Sunny and Warm
Conditions: Clean with some mini pitch outs
Swell: NW and SW Mix, smaller than yesterday
Surf: Waist High Sets
Wetsuit Life: 21 Sessions in Rip Curl Bomb

Comments:

Made it to Rincon two hours earlier than yesterday, but with the time change it was the equivalent of only one hour. A lot of the same faces from yesterday, the springsuit guy with the yellow board was one of them. The tide was higher than my session yesterday so it took some time before things were ideal. Also the crowd seemed a little bigger or a least a little more competent. A lot of 14 year groms killing it. The waves were perfect for these kids, one of them was so small he had to be like 8 years old or something, and the little mini tear drops that pitch out at the indicator were perfect vaccum's for these little dudes. All wearing Xcel wetsuits, it was obvious these were all Carp groms and chatty at that. The rally cry for this little posee was "Pull In!" No matter what size wave or how badly formed it was, if some grom was taking off, some other grom was yelling "Pull In!". Sprinkling groms around a lineup is always a good thing, they bring a certain youthful energy to things, getting stoked from just about anything. Of course these kids were severely decreasing my wavecount, but I managed to find pockets to sit in where everyone lived in harmony. Yet again the weather was spectacular, not a cloud in the sky and that sun low in the sky still managed to put some warmth on the skin. The left off of the indicator wasn't breaking as good today. Things were much more lined up to go right which may have been why less waves available. Still this session was super fun and I was surfing in my 90th percentile.

Getting out of the water I saw the guy with the Aviso board from yesterday. Yet again he was getting some attention with this new board. I saw him get one wave with it, and i can attest it is surfable. Aftewards some coffee at French Bulldog.




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