Wednesday, October 12, 2005 @ 5:15 PM
IanI in the House
| Location: | Sands | ||
| Weather: | Sunny yet breezy | ||
| Conditions: | Somewhat chunky, calming down at sunset | ||
| Swell: | NW Windswell |
||
| Surf: | Waist High Sets | ||
| Wetsuit Life: | 9 Sessions in Rip Curl Bomb |
Comments:
A super foggy day yesterday but today the sun was back. However with it was wind. I surfed for the first time with IanI, not to be confused with Ian, who now lives in North Carolina. We headed out between 1st and 2nd peak but pretty much surfed the rights at 2nd peak and some real fun lefts that were breaking in between the two peaks. It looked small and crappy, I didn't think it would be fun at all, but I was surprised, it was super consistent and waist high waves came thru nonstop, especially towards the end.I did my maddening race for waves, catching as many as I could before somehow, someway, it got really crowded and I never got another wave. It was fun, actually got a few cutbacks to the source ane some succesful pushbacks off the whitewater and then raced down to beat the section I just came from. No snake wars with students, and no one ran into me.
IanI surfed his 6'4" after several frustrating sessions on his shorter yet wider board. The 6'4" confirmed to himself that yes indeed he could surf, but his new shorter board was a slippery slope. He caught a ton of waves too, and we pretty much had a peak to ourselves the whole time. We surfed until after the sun went down, for sure a way better session than I had anticipated.