Saturday, October 29, 2005 @ 10:00 AM

 

Last Day of PDT

Location: Rincon
Weather: Sunny and Warm
Conditions: Clean with some mini pitch outs
Swell: NW and SW Mix
Surf: Waist High Sets
Wetsuit Life: 20 Sessions in Rip Curl Bomb

Comments:

Mid morning session on the Fish at Rincon. Little Bear ran to Carp while I surfed at the Indicator. A few dozen surfers spread out at the indicator and the rivermouth. A super fast yet makeable left breaking up top, along with a very workable right. Between Indicator and Rivermouth was a mushy right that held back too much but was uncrowded. The rivermouth had a nice right going. I speant most of my time at the indicator but played the rover card and moved where the wave/crowd ratio was good, doing several laps from the top to the rivermouth and back over several waves. The weather was gorgeous. Last weekend at this time it was foggy and drizzly and I honestly felt like I lived in Seattle. Today is why we live here, a warm sunny morning, the smell of fall in the air, clean waves and good vibes. This was my best session in many days, caught a lot of waves and didn't suck. Had many workable waves with some racy sections with powerful (for me) cutbacks. A few little attempts at getting covered up, but that was only really pulled off by the 14 and under groms out there.

Tide was getting low, and the rocks were starting to show more and more. Some big lulls came in but the sets were fun if you were sitting in the right place. The indicator started to closeout out a little bit at the right and connect more with the mushy in betweener section from earlier. It was getting fast.

In the parking lot was a guy and gal from down south somewhere. He worked for Lost and had one of their new Aviso boards of Carbon Fibre. He was raving about it and showed us the lightly damaged nose that ran into a pier a few days ago. Seemed like a nice bloke. Afterwards some coffee from French Bulldog then putting in some hours at work to get some stuff out the door for our first million dollar month.




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