Thursday, October 27, 2005 @ 5:30 PM
A Little Rain
| Location: | Goleta Beachbreaks | ||
| Weather: | Clearing Up From Scattered Showers | ||
| Conditions: | Somewhat Chunky From The System | ||
| Swell: | 6.1ft at 12s @ 295° |
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| Surf: | Knee High, Some Waist High Sets | ||
| Wetsuit Life: | 18 Sessions in Rip Curl Bomb |
Comments:
Last nights session was such an unexpected good time that I thought I'd try it again. Today the buoys showed even more action, and I had images of chest high waves. Not so, said the ocean. Waves were smaller and less consistant than yesterday, with chunky conditions to boot. An older guy on cool yellow board out there at the peak I was out and 4 kids further down the beach. Waves often closed out, and sometimes doubleed up and got funky from the wind that was driving them mad. The weird rip current thing from yesterday was in effect today also, making a whole swath of ocean turbulent and not so fun. Didn't have that many good waves, mostly short rides and a few head dips. Bird Island looked completely gone, just a few oil boats and a barge out there doing something. No dolphins or seals but I encountered one of the worst Tar Storms of my life at this spot. I could see a mixed up edge of water outside of my position and soon enough the leading edge of this thermocline or whatever it was had so many tar balls I didn't know what to do. It was like surfing at sands there was so much junk in the water.Sunset was pretty good, still happy to see the sun.