Saturday, October 22, 2005 @ 10:00 AM
Rincon: Day Before Opening Day
| Location: | Rincon | ||
| Weather: | Fog/Drizzle | ||
| Conditions: | Gross Brown Water, mini Waves | ||
| Swell: | Mostly SW sneaking thru |
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| Surf: | Calf to Knee High | ||
| Wetsuit Life: | 14 Sessions in Rip Curl Bomb |
Comments:
I knew, as well as the rest of California, that a swell was coming in Sunday. It probably wouldn't show until late, and it would probably be too steep to be epic, but it was coming. I needed to get over this funk this Seattle like weather was putting me in, so I went to the 'con with the longboard. Do it like I always do when there are no waves: No surf check, no leash, no second guessing the paddle out, just go for it. Sure enough, only a few people out, and only a few waves to be had.Surfed for an hour or so in these red tide conditions. Mostly surfed a little down from the glass house with a shaved headed guy I see out there a lot on these tiny days. We traded a lot of waves when the sets came in. Waves were so close to the rocks you almost couldn't make a cutback because you'd be on dry land.