Saturday, October 22, 2005 @ 10:00 AM

 

Rincon: Day Before Opening Day

Location: Rincon
Weather: Fog/Drizzle
Conditions: Gross Brown Water, mini Waves
Swell:

Mostly SW sneaking thru

Surf: Calf to Knee High
Wetsuit Life: 14 Sessions in Rip Curl Bomb

Comments:

I knew, as well as the rest of California, that a swell was coming in Sunday. It probably wouldn't show until late, and it would probably be too steep to be epic, but it was coming. I needed to get over this funk this Seattle like weather was putting me in, so I went to the 'con with the longboard. Do it like I always do when there are no waves: No surf check, no leash, no second guessing the paddle out, just go for it. Sure enough, only a few people out, and only a few waves to be had.

Surfed for an hour or so in these red tide conditions. Mostly surfed a little down from the glass house with a shaved headed guy I see out there a lot on these tiny days. We traded a lot of waves when the sets came in. Waves were so close to the rocks you almost couldn't make a cutback because you'd be on dry land.




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