Thursday, October 06, 2005 @ 5:30 PM
Third Session
| Location: | Sands | ||
| Weather: | Indian Summer, slight offshore | ||
| Conditions: | Peaky Windswell, Clean and Sometimes Pitching | ||
| Swell: | NW Windswell |
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| Surf: | Waist High, Some Bigger Sets | ||
| Wetsuit Life: | 3 Sessions in Rip Curl Bomb |
Comments:
Two days in a row of fun windswell at sands, and I go back once again. The buoys have dropped all day, and Wild Bill said his lunchtime session was pretty small, so I was expecting disapointment. Sure enough walking out there I didn't see much. The crowd was a little smaller than last night, I only had to walk to the 1st white sign to find some space. My first 15 minutes I was catching waves like the world was ending, catching anything that moved, paddling out, and spinning around before I even made it out to get something else. Once I was satsified on wave count I got a little more picky and waited for the sets.The sets were about 5 minutes long with 5 minutes lulls. Or so. When it was on, it really was on, with wave after wave coming in and providing fun rights and lefts. I worked a lot of lefts, until I started to drift East into the main peak and I started to take a lot of lefts. The sun was going down and it was getting so consistent and I found myself amongst people that were not taking off on the walled up ones, so I took wave after wave that often ended up being a race down the line followed by an explosive floater attempt where limbs flailed everywhere. For 10 or 15 minutes right around sunset I was out of my mind taking fun wave after fun wave and becoming a better surfer by the minute.
Then a long lull came, a new group moved to where I was and my last wave in I got dropped in on by a guy who got drug over the falls right in front of me. That's when I noticed all the rocks I was surfing in front of.