Monday, November 07, 2005 @ 12:00 PM

 

Peak Sharing (with Dolphins)

Location: Sands
Weather: Partly Cloudy
Conditions: SSE Wind Combing the Rights
Swell: Steep NW
Surf: Waist High Sets
Wetsuit Life: 26 Sessions in Rip Curl Bomb

Comments:

Sands at lunch, it turned out to be a much better session than expected. Storm was expected tommorrow so had to get some waves in. I was surprised by the conditions, with the crazy SSE wind from Friday still blowing so as to smooth out the waves and allow the rights to have an insane pitch out shape to them. Surfed to the left of Stu Peak for awhile but the tide was too high and it was slow and un-fun so I paddled down past the 1st snowy plover sign. Here I shared a peak with a guy for an hour, trading waves in silence that ranged from chest high closeouts to waist high and workable down the line actions.

My peak sharing friend was very good, getting in huge hits on the lip and floaters only my mind can conjure. By contrast I'd scream down the line on the Fish and try to pull the biggest cutback the board would allow me, regroup with a few pumps and then end up off the lip in a blaze of glory.

(Update: I also forgot to post about the awesome dolphin experience I had. A pod was swimming by and 3-4 were heading straight for me, coming up every 10 feet or so and on targe to come up right where I was. I faced them and started swirling my hands in the water to get their attention. Two of them stopped 3-4 feet from me and floated at the surface, with their backs and blowholes above water but their eyes and nose below water. They checked me out for 5-10 seconds and then swam under me and came up on the other side. It was great.)



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