Saturday, November 26, 2005 @ 6:30 AM
Waves but Weather
| Location: | PCH |
| Weather: | Some Clouds |
| Conditions: | Very Disorganized |
| Swell: | 11.2ft @ 14s @ 290° |
| Surf: | Head High+ Sets |
| Wetsuit Life: | 40 Sessions |
Steve and I met Unkle along the PCH. He was already grumpy because his favorite parking spot was taken. The parking police usually came by around 6:45 to give the pre-7:00 parking people some hassle and tickets. Those guys are not fun. So with Unkle's secret pre-7:00 spot taken we had to do some improvising. This is when Unkle realized he forgot his wetsuit. He was about to drive home when his Jeep wouldn't start. Lot's of messing around, jump starting, push starting and etc, before he told us to go surf while he worked on it.
I had the fish, Steve had the longboard. We made it up to our peak and there was size. Head high waves and a little bigger on the sets. Very dis-organized, a lot of wind in the channel from the night before. Tide was high but wasn't that much of a factor. Winds were offshore and just pelting you with spray on the backside, but the waves were full of chop and dis-organization. The fish was the right tool for this point break on high tide, it sectioned out lot in places but then would also hold off in other places. A few guys came out, got pounded on the paddle out and then sat way outside. I had half a dozen guys out twice as far as I, catching almost nothing. Steve was getting worked on his LB so he went inside to find some smaller ones and then went in to rest. When he came back out he mis-timed it and took a lot more on the head. By that time I had got a lot of waves and it was time for breaky at Art's.