Saturday, December 24, 2005 @ 11:00 AM

 

Christmas Eve at the Rincon

Location: Rincon
Weather: Sunny and in the 70's
Conditions: Fairly Clean, West means Indicator Fast
Swell: 7.6ft @ 14s @ 290°
Surf: Head High
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 16 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments:

Surfed the indicator at Rincon with a lot of people out there both from in and out of town. Georgeous day, super warm and a slight Santa Ana feel to it, warm offshores and clear skies free of smog. Pack was dense and had to surf far to the right on the waves that didn't connect into the Rivermouth just to get some waves. Some allowed for a workup of speed and some allowed for a quick tuck in. Didn't recognize anybody out there from the typical Con crew. A guy who was visiting from San Francisco wanted to know where a good spot would be to hit up on his drive back up North. Mavericks?

Waves weren't that big, and the surfers that had been surfing Rincon during the bigger days like Wed-Fri were piqued at the crowd. "Where were all these surfers when it was big?" was the one guys lament. Surfing at other places in SB that don't break that often, or safely watching from shore and getting out of your way was my silent response. Got a few cover ups and got one wicked huge floater on my last wave, giant freefall into shallow water over the cobbles.


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