Thursday, December 08, 2005 @ 6:15 AM

 

Fin Busting Session

Location: Sands
Weather: Scattered Clouds, Cold Air
Conditions: Clean with Slight Offshores, Closing Out Often
Swell: 4.3ft @ 14s @ 280°
Surf: Waist High
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 3 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments:

Dawn patrol with Kyle and later on with IanI. Only 1 guy out at Stu's, but at first it seemed the swell had dropped. Our first 15-20 minutes were speant catching super small waves on our shortboards, knee high or so and going nowhere. Eventually some fun sets started coming in, waist high or so, some bigger on occaision. Super clean, yet often way to close out to get much going on. A lot of waves to ride though with no one really out. Got to do some lip hitting and take some fun turns, although adjustment to the shorty after the fish yielded many flounders.

In what would be my last wave of the session I went left on a wave that brought a closeout section coming towards me so I rail grabbed and tried to tuck into the oncoming gaping barrell. Somehow as the wave came over me I started tracking up the face and then freefell over the falls and landed on my board, fin side up. My right hip landed squarely on the center fin and when I popped up my hip was fine, my suit was fine, but my center fin broke loose, probably saving me and/or my wetsuit from stitches by absorbing the blow. However, with both plugs torn loose, I had no choice but to sit on the beach at 7:30, which was much colder than the water. Luckily Kyle came out and I moped to work, with an FCS fin dangling off my board.


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