Sunday, December 11, 2005 @ 9:00 AM
Good To Be Back Along The Central Coast
| Location: | Central Coast |
| Weather: | Mostly Sunny |
| Conditions: | Sizable and Clean |
| Swell: | Unknown |
| Surf: | Overhead Sets |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: | 5 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
With the swell that started building yesterday afternoon I headed to a sheltered spot along the central coast that I surfed a lot last year on big days when living in SLO. A reef that is mostly a right with some lefts, and another reef 100 yards north or so. With the shortboard broken I took out the Fish. Something about surfing on the central coast, in thicker rubber with booties, and rocks and wind, you feel like a true hero for pulling off a session at some of these spots. This break has a quick paddle out if you walk along a spine of rocks and then jump in the water in between sets. I didn't time it right, the first wave of the set was so big it was going to wash me off the rocks so I jumped and started to paddle, and took 5 waves on my head paddling out. Got the full ice cream headache.
The session was good, got some fun and fast head high and bigger waves, with fast drops and a racing section followed by a slow section for cutbacks and then the inside is sped up for a closeout cover up. Only got a few of those, usually I dropped in behind the peak and didn't make the section while guys further down the line made it. A little bit of drama out there, with mostly all shortboarders expect for 2 guys on longboards, one of whom nearly killed a local with his errant board. Luckily no carange resulted.