Sunday, December 11, 2005 @ 9:00 AM

 

Good To Be Back Along The Central Coast

Location: Central Coast
Weather: Mostly Sunny
Conditions: Sizable and Clean
Swell: Unknown
Surf: Overhead Sets
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 5 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments:

With the swell that started building yesterday afternoon I headed to a sheltered spot along the central coast that I surfed a lot last year on big days when living in SLO. A reef that is mostly a right with some lefts, and another reef 100 yards north or so. With the shortboard broken I took out the Fish. Something about surfing on the central coast, in thicker rubber with booties, and rocks and wind, you feel like a true hero for pulling off a session at some of these spots. This break has a quick paddle out if you walk along a spine of rocks and then jump in the water in between sets. I didn't time it right, the first wave of the set was so big it was going to wash me off the rocks so I jumped and started to paddle, and took 5 waves on my head paddling out. Got the full ice cream headache.

The session was good, got some fun and fast head high and bigger waves, with fast drops and a racing section followed by a slow section for cutbacks and then the inside is sped up for a closeout cover up. Only got a few of those, usually I dropped in behind the peak and didn't make the section while guys further down the line made it. A little bit of drama out there, with mostly all shortboarders expect for 2 guys on longboards, one of whom nearly killed a local with his errant board. Luckily no carange resulted.


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