Tuesday, December 20, 2005 @ 6:30 AM
Harbor Rats
| Location: | Santa Barbara |
| Weather: | Partly Overcast |
| Conditions: | Cleanish Little Tubes |
| Swell: | 7.4ft @ 12s @ 270° |
| Surf: | Waist High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: | 11 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
IanI checked it a little before 6:00 and said no one was in the water but it was smaller then when he looked at it last night at 10:00 and there were 10 guys in the lineup. I hadn't surfed this spot right under my nose in at least two years, also with a guy named Ian. We met in the water and were the 3rd and 4th in. In half an hour there would be a dozen in the water. All the groms had this spot wired, the takeoff, the sitting in the position without paddling hard against the surge, the tucking into the tube the instant they dropped in. It was amazing a wave that breaks so infrequently could get so wired by so many people. I figured this spot was going to go off on wednesday when the big west swell rolled in, and wanted a taste of it because I knew I wouldn't be riding it then.
We surfed for an hour. I got 8 waves. One was the wave you come here for: fast, barrelling and long. By far the longest wave I had scratched for here ever. 4 other waves were unremarkable. The other 3 were botched takeoffs that quickly went in my negative column with the groms. We got out of the water but stayed suited as we drove to a Mesa spot to check it. Big and closing out, a lot of texture. Passed up the opportunity in order to get to work by 8:00 and go in the afternoon with the building swell.