Friday, December 23, 2005 @ 8:30 AM

 

Size Lessening

Location: Montecito Coast
Weather: Foggy
Conditions: Chunky Nuggets
Swell: 10.8ft @ 17s @ 275°
Surf: Chest to Head High
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 15 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments:

Same spot again with IanI. Spotted regular pro ST out there, he was turning these chunky dis-organized waves into something worth watching with his arcs and off the tops. Small crowd, varried from 6 to just the 2 of us in the 2+ hours we surfed. Conditions got better as the morning wore on, got a little glassy inside although outside still felt the effects of the southern wind.

I got better as the session wore on, after blowing a few early takeoffs was on a roll with some late takeoffs that developed into some fast sections and big cutbacks. ST was not impressed. Uncrowded sessions equal great fun.


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