Thursday, December 22, 2005 @ 11:00 AM

 

Size Still Here

Location: Montecito Coast
Weather: Foggy
Conditions: Onshore Wind and Texture
Swell: 9.9ft @ 12s @ 290°
Surf: Overhead
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 14 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments:

Surfed with Petey at the place I watched yesterday for half an hour but opted to go to it's little brother instead. The size had dropped and today this break was a tad overhead and more crowded. Foggy with a little breeze bringing up some chunky texture, felt like early summer conditions with early winter waves. Water is still warm out there, pretty comfortable south of conception in a 3/2 without booties, which seams warmer than usual for this time of year.

Petey got some great waves, I got some OK waves. Often got closed out on and didn't make the first section on the bigger ones. Smaller ones connected for me but usually meant I got pounded on the paddle back out. Had my longest hold down of the winter today on a duck dive where I got kelp stuck between my hand and my board so the kelp lube made me lose my right grip on my board and mid-duck on a well overhead wave I was boardless and sent to the bottom as punishment. Super fast speeds were obtained today.


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