| Location: |
Deveraux and Sands |
| Weather: |
N/A |
| Conditions: |
Clean |
| Swell: |
7.9ft @ 14s @ 285° |
| Surf: |
Head High Sets |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: |
6 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
Comments:
Met IanI down south to surf to dawn patrol during a high tide. The spot we met at just wasn't doing it. It was 6:15 with two guys on it, a dozen more going for it, and very infrequent waist high waves. Just shut down by the tide. Might have to cross it off my list of high tide surf spots. So we went for the sure thing and drove all the way up to Goleta and paddled out at Deveraux. I had the Fish and we hung out at the very top of the point. The tide was high enough that the rocks up there weren't visible yet, but the boils were starting and it was a game of chicken. Most of these waves sectioned out, whereas the 2nd peak was the place to be, although that had too many people on it. We surfed here for an hour and a half and then paddled to Sands and got a few here. The swell was too big for Sands, the sets were closing out, but the waves that were head high and below were rideable. I had some of my best waves of the day here in the last half hour of the session. Ultra fast rights that were long and ended in a pounding. A couple of IanI's buddies came out, and one of them on a longboard. I didn't think that would last long, with the closeout sets that were coming in. However, soon a big set came in, and all 4 of us paddled out to greet it. The 3 of us shortboarders passed on the the first set wave, which was a road to nowhere but the longboard took it, dropping in on an overhead wave that offered nowhere to go, and came up in the foam somewhere down the line. Impressivly put us to shame.