Friday, January 20, 2006 @ 5:31 PM
Family Session
| Location: | Deveraux |
| Weather: | Sunny and in the 70's |
| Conditions: | Clean and Glassy, Yet Closing Out |
| Swell: | 8.1ft @ 14s @ 285° |
| Surf: | Waist High |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: | 35 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
Great Friday lunchtime session at Deveraux, with guest surfers including Kyle, Little Bear, Wild Bill, and JC. Bear, Kyle and I started out at the Block House, I on Kyle's Becker longboard. Very long lulls out here but fun sets, doing that thing that Deveraux does: break for a long time. Lots of time to drop in, go down the line, cutback to left, eat a sandwich, then cutback to the right down the line. Other waves were so fast it was like surfing a beachbreak on the wrong tide. Off of the Yucca Tree a nice left was breaking, much faster and exciting yet not as dependable.
Soon Wild Bill and JC showed up and we had our own 5 person possee. I switched to Kyle's 7 foot something single fin, which is a board style that might find a way in my quiver someday. Flat and quick, with a crazy release off the tail, it made for fun turns. Everybody seemed to be catching a lot of waves, chatting it up, and generally having a lazy Friday lunch out in the water. Great times.