Friday, January 06, 2006 @ 12:00 PM

 

A Long Walk On Stones

Location: Campus Point
Weather: Sunny and in the 70's, Offshore Breeze
Conditions: Almost as Good as it Gets
Swell: 7.5ft @ 14s @ 275°
Surf: Some Overhead Sets
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 24 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments:

Checked Deveraux, which has had some serious sand re-arrangement because it is just not it's usual self lately. Then checked some of the IV reefs and beachbreaks to find all of the sand gone from the beaches and a lot of closeout barrells. Kyle and I then did a first for me: Tackle Campus Point from the Western approach. Parked at the end of IV and hiked thru the "new" Manzanita dorms and down to Depressions and walked on rocks and that clay cliff material to the backside of Campus. I don't think this route was faster but it was worth trying once. We then backdoored the paddle out w/o incident and were surfing with half a dozen guys at the top of the point, with another few dozen spread throughout the break.

Waves were perfect, head high+ and pitching out. Most of the time you could connect to the inside but sometimes you got shut down right in front of the rocks. Totally took off late on the first big one, kinda got hit by the lip and took a digger. Very next big one it was on like Donkey Kong though, because I pulled off a sweet hair drop and then raced down the line. Kyle was owning it out there, positioning himself into a lot of prime waves. Worst part of the session was my bout with a snaker. Got snaked by two guys on the same wave, a shortboard guy and his longboard buddy who lost his board right in front of me, giving me no choice but to level off into the rocks. Bullocks! I've seen this longboarder out at Campus a lot and he gives LB's a bad name, belly and bald and all just like a cliche of himself. I was furious. This same guy snaked me half an hour later, I yelled 4 times and he never responded, and just kept going. Perhaps the worst snake of my life. He went on my non-existant list, as in this guy does not exist in this lineup, not if he's deeper than me, not if he's coming down the line, he simply does not exist. That worked out well.

Saw a few cover ups, but got nothing myself, my one chance being a closeout pit I could of tucked into yet I passed. The inside of the cove was working nicely too, a lot of young longboard guys out there with serious style showing how it's done. It went from windless to an offshore wind that rained down the backside of the waves. Could it get any better? It probably could but this was a long enough lunch break as it was.


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