Saturday, January 14, 2006 @ 9:00 AM
Rainy Day Rincon
| Location: | Rincon |
| Weather: | Light Rain |
| Conditions: | Somewhat chunky yet the Con was peeling |
| Swell: | 11.8ft @ 14s @ 295° |
| Surf: | Chest High Sets |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: | 30 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
I had written today off as surfable. It was supposed to be rainy and cruddy. However at 8:00 it was only light rain and not windy. I went for it. Did a no look Cove session on the Fish. Bingo. Less than a dozen people out, the water wasn't too filled with poo, and the lines were long and fun. Surfed from the glass house down past the hut on at least 3 waves. Was actually surfing like I wasn't a kook, driving down the line, making a big cutty, coming up on the foam then heading back down the line, perhaps hitting a lip or two.
Some of the best waves were the bigger sets that swung wide and caught everyone inside. I found by hanging out further down in the cover I could react to these and pick them up without contest. It was a conveyor belt. Afterwards the Seahawks beat the Redskins.