Wednesday, January 11, 2006 @ 12:00 PM

 

Rocks

Location: Sands
Weather: Overcast
Conditions: Shifty Thick Lipped Low Tide Drainers
Swell: 130ft @ 12s @ 300°
Surf: Waist High
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 29 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments:

First time checking out Sands since the big swell of December 21st, and man how much Sand has been chiseled away from that beach. The high tide line has climbed up the beach so high there is only about 2000 square feet of soft sandy beach left under the cliffs. The snowy plover roping was all gone, although there were a lot of signs up still, and the snowy plovers themselves lost about 50% of their oceanfront real estate. Kyle and I walked down the mouth of the slough and picked off some drainers coming in over the bar. With all that sand moving around you'd think it got dumped somewhere to build shape, but at least at low tide we didn't see it.

Still managed to squeak in a lot of long waves, some jacking up impossibly in very shallow water, and others spilling over gently. Kyle took a bad digger on the bottom, and I was more than once dragged along the rocks on the bottom, even on small waves they were molesting me on water to no end. Two almost mini cover ups but not really.




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