Sunday, January 22, 2006 @ 9:30 AM

 

Small and Empty Rincon

Location: Rincon
Weather: Sunny and in the 70's
Conditions: Kinda Shifty and Screwy
Swell: 7.0ft @ 14s @ 300°
Surf: Waist High
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 37 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments:

Downside: Smaller than yesterday. Upside: At 9:30am I'm surfing Rincon with no one out all the way from the top of the indicator down past the Rivermouth. A dozen surfers in the Cove, but no one North of there. Shark scare? Sewage Spill? Unknown, but I'm surfing thigh to waist high waves by myself for over a half hour before 3-4 other surfers come out. Waves at the Indicator were funny, the tide was wrong and the angle was wrong, so a nice peak would pop up, pitch out for a super hollow section than disapear. Seeing as how I had the place to myself I sat further inside just above the Rivermouth and caught the less frequent wide swingers that had better shape and were longer rides. Result: many fun take-offs behind that peak, driving down to beat the first section, a hit off the lip and my best section floater attempt ever.

A longboarder came out, followed by a grom on a 5' board. We had the spread, an old longboarder, a grom on a chip, and me in the middle on the Fish. We got along well. Grom's dad came out and grom caught a sweet wave from the indicator that he drove all the way into where I was sitting. I'm hooting, dad's hooting, the Rincon watches silently as another grom's formative years grow.




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