Saturday, January 07, 2006 @ 7:00 AM
Three Fish
| Location: | Deverauxt |
| Weather: | Sunny and Warm |
| Conditions: | Rough, Confused Swell |
| Swell: | 8.2ft @ 17s @ 260° |
| Surf: | Overhead at Point down to Chest High at Stairs |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: | 25 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
Deveraux with Greggory and IanI, all on varying styles of Fish. It was G's first time on his new fish, which looks like a 3" thick longboard chopped shorter than 6 feet, given two big fins spread out to the rails, and a giant swallow tail. We paddled out half way between the Yucca tree and the Jailhouse and surfed awhile just west of the Yucca tree. It was shifty, with two swells coming in and not quite lining up. The sea had a bit of early morning cheese on it too, and Deveraux has been having a hard time holding some of these straight westers. I paddled to the point and caught a few waves. It was a whole different world out there: windy, choppy and some pretty hairball drops with little in the way of turning.
Back to I and G, we let ourselves drift down past the Yucca tree. The wind started to let up and it started to get a little more glassy. By the time we drifted to the stairs thing were getting good. Waves were still closing out, but they were getting more makeable and cleaner. We would catch some of the waist high waves but the sets were getting more consistent and chest high and colored green. Not a classic Deveraux session, but fun nonetheless.