Sunday, February 05, 2006 @ 7:00 AM

 

Not Enough Water

Location: Sands and Deveraux
Weather: Sunny
Conditions: Somewhat Shuffled
Swell: 11.1ft @ 17s @ 310°
Surf: Shoulder to Head High
Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: 46 Sessions in Replacement Suit.
Comments: Sunday early am session with Greggory and IanI in the Volvo. Sands was the call, but that was a mistake. It wasn't crowded but the tide was too low and the swell too big to work. We got the snot beat out of us on 2 second rides for a half hour before we got smart and went to Devearux. Life on a potato chip at Deveraux amongst big boards was tough. You tire easily scrambling for deveraux waves when you don't have any foam. Got some fun waist high ones, but this was a session about making a lot of bad decisions.




<< Reports Home