Thursday, February 09, 2006 @ 6:30 AM
Redemption
| Location: | Sands |
| Weather: | Clear Cool Morning |
| Conditions: | Clean with slight offshore |
| Swell: | 9.6ft @ 17s @ 300° |
| Surf: | Waist to Chest. Some Bigger Sets. |
| Rip Curl Bomb Wetsuit Life: | 49 Sessions in Replacement Suit. |
Dawn Patrol at Sands with Kyle on the shorties. Bike ride out there was chilly on the exposed feet and hands No one out, surfed alone for most of the time, one other guy came out for awhile. The main peak at Stu's was shutting down mostly, although every now and then there was a picture perfect right peeling there. We were down to the East more, in front of the fallen down tree on the cliff. Here there was one of the best lefts I've surfed at Sands ever. It was a bit inconsistent, many times closing out on the bigger sets and having some long lulls in between sets. However it was worth it because when you got one you had a racetrack down the line. If you could get up quick enough and distribute your weight correctly for speed on your backside, you were locked into a thrill ride that would let up towards the end for a turn or two. If you worked it all the way to the shore you'd be past where the Snowy Plover Docent usually sits (which by the way today's docent showed up at 8am, that is dedication.)
After a few frustrating crowded sessions in a row it's nice to surf with no crowd to get the rythm going on the small board once again. It's amazing how many critical sections you can make when you can takeoff in the correct takeoff spot, as opposed to getting into positional battles that leave kooks like me stuffed behind the peak. Sunrise was epic, to the West was a blue layer and on top of that pink, to the East we had orange and red. The windless morning turned into light offshores when the sun rose, bringing spray off the back and maybe they got kinda hollow but no barrels were scoored this day.